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What Caught Our Attention At Lakmē Fashion Week X FDCI October 2024


Lakmē Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI returned to India’s capital with a display of creative brilliance from October 9 to 13. This year’s event, held at The Grand, was a celebration of sustainability, innovation, and tradition. This year’s lineup was a true feast for the eyes, with the Denim Edit, highlighting iconic designers and sustainable collections from R|Elan™ and Huemn, as well as the debut of Marks & Spencer. From repurposed materials to collaborations with global icons like Hello Kitty, the week offered something for every fashion enthusiast. Here's a round-up of some of the standout collections that defined this edition of Lakmē Fashion Week X FDCI.


péro: Hello Kitty with a Twist


The Lakmé Fashion Week opened with a flourish as péro, the brainchild of Aneeth Arora, marked its 15th anniversary with the enchanting collection titled "HELLO péro." This collaboration with the beloved Hello Kitty, which also celebrates the character's 50th anniversary, was a delightful fusion of nostalgia and playful design. Drawing inspiration from Hello Kitty's iconic motifs, the collection featured vibrant textiles adorned with cherries, strawberries, and creamy cupcakes, encapsulating the essence of childhood joy.


In a homage to the Harajuku Street style, the collection showcased a kaleidoscope of pinks, reds, blues, and yellows, brought to life through péro's signature "Cottage Core Kawaii" aesthetic. The intricate detailing—rich beadwork, fabric origami, and hand-crochet techniques—added depth and dimension to the garments. The use of traditional Indian textiles like Chanderi and Jamdani further rooted the collection in artisanal craftsmanship, celebrating the expertise of over 1,000 weavers across India. As Aneeth Arora stated, “This collection is a celebration of our collective childhood nostalgia reinterpreted in our own quirky style.” With this presentation, péro not only celebrated its legacy but also redefined whimsy in contemporary fashion.


Payal Jain's Uzbekistan-inspired collection





Payal Jain’s collection Rising Sun took the audience on a vibrant journey through Uzbekistan, reflecting the country's rich cultural and artistic heritage. Inspired by her travels, Jain infused traditional Uzbek motifs like Suzani and Ikat into her designs, reimagining them through a modern lens. The collection, which included fabrics like linen gauze, Chanderi silk, and Mulmul, embodied the rich textile legacy of Central Asia.


Jain’s use of vibrant patchwork and bold prints stood out, as did her incorporation of antique textiles repurposed into modern wrap skirts and cross-body bags. The intricate craftsmanship was a testament to Jain's dedication to sustainability and artisanal heritage. Her symbolic use of the Chekich, a traditional Uzbek bread stamper, added depth to the collection, symbolising familial bonds and tradition. Payal Jain’s Rising Sun offered a captivating fusion of heritage and modernity, making it one of the week’s most culturally enriching presentations.


Rohit Bal Closed The Lakmē Fashion Week





It truly was a finale in full bloom. Rohit Bal, one of India’s most celebrated designers, brought Lakmé Fashion Week to a grand conclusion with his collection Kaaynaat: A Bloom in the Universe. Held at the Imperial Hotel, the finale was a mesmerising tribute to nature and its eternal cycle of growth. Bal’s collection, inspired by Lakmé Rouge Bloom, highlighted the delicate beauty of flowers and the mysteries of the universe.


The show was a visual feast, with flowing fabrics and intricate embroidery adorned with vibrant floral motifs that symbolised the bloom of life. Ananya Panday, the Lakmé muse, took the ramp as the showstopper, perfectly embodying the collection's celestial grace. Bal’s signature craftsmanship was evident in every piece, with each ensemble narrating the journey of a flower from bud to bloom. The grand finale was a fitting end to the week, celebrating both fashion and nature in perfect harmony.nce, and this collection reflects both the grace of nature and the enduring power of beauty.”


Payal Singhal completes 25 years



Payal Singhal's collection at Lakmē Fashion Week, named 'Tazhib', is a celebration of her brand's 25-year journey in modern Indian bridal and occasion wear. With roots in history and culture, Singhal expertly marries traditional Mughal art and architecture with contemporary aesthetics, creating a line that is both rich in heritage and appealing to today’s fashion-forward women. Each piece tells a story, showcasing the designer’s skill in blending the old with the new while retaining a vintage charm.

In this collection, Payal revisits iconic silhouettes and colour stories that have defined her brand over the years. Expect to see beautifully deconstructed anarkalis, striking backless corset cholis, and flowing ruffle lehengas—all intricately embellished with mukaish, gota, and zari work. The use of luxurious fabrics like tissue, organza, and velvet further enhances the collection's elegance. The colour palette flows gracefully from classic black and white to vibrant hues, each infused with a nostalgic sepia tone that pays homage to the Mughal era. Singhal’s designs invite brides to embrace their individuality while celebrating their heritage, making 'Tazhib' a standout highlight of this year's fashion week.


Abraham and Thakore





Abraham & Thakore’s collection at Lakmē Fashion Week is a refreshing exploration of the beauty found in the mundane and the forgotten. Titled "Serendipity," this evening wear line masterfully evokes memories of obsolete objects, recontextualising them within the fast-paced fashion world of today. With a keen eye for nostalgia, the designers breathe new life into elements that are often overlooked, showcasing a remarkable blend of history and modernity.


This collection is not just about aesthetics; it tells a story. The designers cleverly utilise luxurious materials such as silks, georgettes, and organzas, pairing them with unexpected and quirky materials like discarded sweet wrappers, vibrant plastic sheets, and retro film or cassette tapes. The result is an ensemble of glamour that defies conventional fashion norms, inviting wearers to celebrate the beauty in upcycling. Intricate embroideries and bejewelled surfaces add layers of sophistication, transforming everyday items into high-fashion statements.



Monisha Jaising's The Sailing Bride 2.0





Monisha Jaising brought a breath of fresh air to Lakmē Fashion Week with her captivating collection, "The Sailing Bride 2.0." This line revives her earlier 2015 collection, originally inspired by the experience of a wedding on a luxury yacht. Jaising’s latest offering is perfect for the modern, laid-back bride who values both style and comfort. Each piece in this collection is a masterpiece, featuring intricate detailing and playful silhouettes that effortlessly blend elegance with a relaxed vibe. Drawing inspiration from her 2017 Summer-Resort show held on a luxury cruise in Mumbai, Jaising celebrates the freedom and individuality of today’s women. The collection embodies a joyful spirit, capturing the essence of contemporary bridal fashion. Soft pastels and rich, bold colours define the palette, while luxurious fabrics and playful designs promise to enchant brides-to-be. Whether it's a draped gown or a stunning lehenga, every outfit resonates with Jaising's unique vision of femininity and style. The collection is not just about looking good; it’s about feeling good and embracing the joy of love in a modern world. In essence, Monisha Jaising has once again proved her prowess in creating garments that are both timeless and refreshingly innovative.


Rishi and Vibhuti's Carnival of Colour





Design duo Rishi and Vibhuti presented Tamasha – The Enchanted, a collection inspired by festive celebrations. The collection was a vibrant carnival of colour, with shades like olive green, violet, red, and teal blue creating a dramatic confluence of hues. The playful energy of the collection was perfectly encapsulated in the varied silhouettes, from frilled saris to draped skirts and shararas.

Miss World 2017, Manushi Chillar, made her runway debut in an olive green sheer sarong-style skirt with a hip-high slit, paired with a colourful bralette. The collection offered a delightful mix of traditional and modern, with outfits designed for both daywear and after-dark glamour. Tamasha was a whimsical and joyful ode to festivity, showcasing the duo's ability to blend tradition with contemporary fashion effortlessly.


Ashdeen Lilaowala Parsi Craft With A Modern Twist





Ashdeen Lilaowala’s collection Fragments of Time was a celebration of Parsi Gara embroidery with a modern touch. Inspired by Dutch artist Patrick Bergsma and Japanese art forms like Ikebana and Bonsai, Ashdeen’s collection reinterpreted these influences with a focus on intricate hand-embroidery. The designer’s repertoire of lush florals and lace combined seamlessly with patchwork and appliqués.

The collection’s pared-back silhouettes allowed the craftsmanship to shine, with cocktail dresses, long jackets, and saris making up the lineup. Actress Alaya F closed the show in a stunning embroidered gown, showcasing the timeless elegance of Parsi embroidery. Ashdeen’s Fragments of Time was a collector’s dream, with pieces destined to become heirlooms.


Shruti Sancheti's Heritage Meets Contemporary





Shruti Sancheti’s collection Advayaa paid homage to India’s rich textile heritage, focusing on traditional motifs like chintz and paisley. Known for her experiments with craft, Sancheti blended intricate embroidery with handcrafted techniques like Kalamkari and screen printing. The collection featured fabrics like satin, matka silk, and organza, offering a luxurious yet grounded aesthetic.

The collection’s layering, neutral tones and mix-and-match silhouettes brought a contemporary edge to traditional craftsmanship. From trenches to capes, the global styling of the pieces made Advayaa a versatile collection for the modern woman, while still honouring India’s unparalleled legacy of craftsmanship.


Punit Balana's Johri Bazaar





Punit Balana’s showcase at Lakmé Fashion Week was a vibrant tribute to Jaipur’s Johri Bazaar. With an array of artistic prints and bold colours, the Festive 2024 collection brought the spirit of the Pink City to life. The collection featured asymmetrical silhouettes designed to flatter various body types, making it both inclusive and stylish. Actor Gurfateh Pirzada opened the show, setting an energetic tone, while showstopper Sobhita Dhulipala mesmerised the audience in a stunning outfit adorned with custom jewellery by Tejpal Ranka. Balana’s designs intertwined traditional Rajasthani culture with modern aesthetics, featuring elements like khaka patterns inspired by puppetry and regal Mughal motifs.


The jewel-toned colour palette captured the vibrancy of the bazaar, and Balana’s ability to blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary silhouettes was evident throughout the collection. He remarked that this showcase aimed to celebrate the creative artistry and cultural importance of handcrafted couture. By the end of the show, the audience was not only entertained but also left with a profound appreciation for the stories behind Balana's designs, encapsulating the very essence of Johari Bazaar.


Pankaj and Nidhi's collection Loop





The husband-and-wife design duo Pankaj and Nidhi presented their collection titled “Loop” at Lakmé Fashion Week, drawing inspiration from the infinity symbol. Their collection featured an impressive range of silhouettes, characterised by intricate embellishments and structural designs. With a mix of modern and traditional elements, the duo offered options from structured jackets to dramatic maxi pants. Pankaj and Nidhi focused on creating versatile pieces that can be layered and mixed, making them perfect for a variety of occasions. They introduced detachable tuxedo yokes, allowing wearers to style their outfits in multiple ways. The collection featured a rich colour palette of burgundy and claret, complemented by nude and black hues. The show closed with actor Sharvari Wagh showcasing a standout kimono bomber jacket, adorned with an infinity loop pattern. This piece, paired with a tuxedo yoke and a duchess satin mini skirt, highlighted the innovative spirit of the collection.


Tarun Tahiliani Debuts His Luxury Pret Brand OTT




Tarun Tahiliani launched his new luxury prêt brand, OTT, at Lakmé Fashion Week, showcasing a fresh approach to Indian fashion. With a focus on versatile separates, OTT aims to provide contemporary pieces suitable for various occasions. This collection marks a significant shift from extravagant couture to accessible luxury, blending traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern silhouettes. Tahiliani's designs featured structured drapes, tailored gilets, and dhoti pants, all echoing his mastery of form and detail. The colour palette drew inspiration from both urban landscapes and Indian traditions, with soft hues and elegant prints. Each piece is designed to be mixed and matched, promoting inclusivity with sizes up to XL.


Showstopper Aditi Rao Hydari wore a striking ensemble that encapsulated the brand's ethos, with a corset bodysuit paired with a flowing skirt. Tahiliani's aim with OTT is to simplify luxury fashion, making it more accessible while allowing wearers to express their individual style. As the brand prepares for its official launch in November, this showcase offered a glimpse into a future where Indian craftsmanship meets modern fashion sensibilities, creating timeless pieces for the discerning consumer.l.


 

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