Arushi Sakhuja
It's that time of the year when the most coveted watch-making event is in full swing. In Geneva, the doors have opened to the year's biggest watch event, Watches and Wonders 2024. With 54 brands revealing their watch releases between April, 9 to April 15, it’s the most prestigious event in a horologist’s calendar. Gathering some of the biggest names in the watchmaking and jewellery industry, the trade show offers a rare glimpse at the incredible novelties set to hit showrooms in the coming months, alongside a host of one-off pieces you won’t be able to find anywhere. From outrageous new models by Rolex to the glitzy releases from Van Cleef & Arpels, Watches & Wonders 2024 has already made a big splash. We look at the most exciting novelties launched so far.
Grand Seiko Spring Dive Watch inspired by Shinshu region mountains
A new limited-edition watch is inspired by the colours of a sunrise in Shinshu, Japan. The Shinshu region in Japan is where Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are made. The sunrise there paints the mountains with changing colours from pink to orange. In 2024, to celebrate 20 years of Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches, a new watch inspired by the summer colours of the mountains will be created. It's made using a special technology to capture the beauty of changing summer mornings. This watch features a special dial-making technology called "Optical Multilayer Coating," which captures the changing colors of the morning sky. This innovative process enhances the texture of the dial and creates a unique visual experience, reflecting the Japanese appreciation for the passage of time.
Hublot Big Bang UNICO Orange Ceramic
The Big Bang Orange Ceramic brings a new ceramic color to life, inspired by the movie 'Clockwork Orange'. This vibrant orange is the result of a unique alchemy and is highly resistant to shocks and scratches. The watch is powered by the Unico Chronograph Manufacture calibre, which is the latest generation of automatic flyback chronograph movement developed by Hublot. It provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours (three days). This watch is limited to a series of 250 pieces.
Vacheron Constantin Grand Lady Kalla
This exquisite piece is a reflection of the Maison's long and rich history of jewellery and pendant watches. The meticulous savoir-faire has given life to this creation, which features 57 facets emerald-cut diamonds on the watch, along with diamonds, Akoya and onyx pearls on the pendant. A high-jewellery and versatile timepiece composed of 268 diamonds, weighing more than 46 carats. This creative timepiece consists of a watch and a tassel sautoir that can be worn in four different ways.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon
A new version of the Overseas tourbillon model is now available in titanium with the collection's signature blue dial. This self-winding tourbillon model is powered by an ultra-thin Manufacture Calibre 2160 and comes with three interchangeable bracelet/strap options, including titanium, calfskin leather, and rubber.
Chanel Bobbin Cuff
These jewellery watches draw inspiration from the various tools that Coco Chanel used to create her iconic couture garments. At first glance, they may not appear to be timepieces. For instance, the Bobbin Cuff takes after a spool of thread and conceals its watch beneath a yellow sapphire that's set in gold. The other three pieces—a watch, a necklace, and a ring—are designed to look like pin cushions, but they are crafted from gold, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and onyx.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 LE1969
The 1858 Collection timepieces from Montblanc are specially designed as tool watches for mountain exploration. They take inspiration from the legendary Minerva pocket watches and chronographs from the 1920s and 1930s, which were originally created for military use due to their precision and durability. Montblanc's latest 1858 Geosphere timepiece showcases a robust design as well as innovative features. The watch pushes the concept of oxygen - the most important element in any intrepid ascent - even further than before.
Cartier-Animals
The luxury brand, known for its iconic Panthère designs, took a different approach at Watches & Wonders 2024 by featuring crocodile patterns on their watch dials. However, they did not forget their feline-inspired creations, as one watch even had a panther figurine perched on top of a multi-colored dial. Another nod to their animal-themed designs included zebra-like stripes. The watches are made of rhodium-finished white gold and adorned with various precious stones such as tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds. Some models also feature spessartite garnets, onyx, and mother-of-pearl.
Reflection de Cartier
Cartier has always been known for its love for illusions in its designs. One such example is the Mystère clocks that are highly collectible wherein the clock face appears to float within its frame. Another example is the Masse Mysterieuse timepiece which was groundbreaking for its time. The entire movement, which doubled as a rotor, seemed to spin midair on the wrist. The maison has now brought the same trompe l’œil effect on its latest jewellery timepiece, Reflection de Cartier. It is an open cuff with diamond accents on one end and a timepiece on the other. The time may be viewed either way you put it on because of the mirror on the other end. The “body” of the bracelet is decorated with a combination of snow-set and inverted diamonds. There are four versions of this piece, all of which are lust-worthy. However, the pieces set with multiple precious stones and diamonds, including the emerald, chrysoprase, and Paraíba version, are the ultimate collector pieces of the lot.
Chanel J12 Automaton Caliber 6
The CHANEL Watch Creation Studio drew inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel and her couture workshop on rue Cambon to design the J12 Automaton Caliber 6. This extraordinary watch, adorned with diamonds, features the Caliber 6 - a new movement created and assembled by the House Watch Manufacture. The watch showcases an incredible technical achievement with 355 components that bring Mademoiselle to life in a meticulously crafted, 5-layer decor, easily activated at the push of a button. The perfect balance of design and watchmaking expertise is expressed through exceptional materials and intricate details.
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
Chopard's Alpine Eagle collection presents a range of sporty-chic timepieces that feature a flyback chronograph in a case made of grade 5 titanium, a metal known for its durability and lightweight properties. The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono model has a 44mm-diameter case, and its new "Rhône Blue" dial color is inspired by the strength of the eagle and the beauty of the Alps. The Chopard 03.05-C chronometer-certified movement with flyback function has three patents that ensure accuracy and smooth handling. In keeping with the Maison's commitment to preserving the Alpine environment and its biodiversity, part of the proceeds from sales of this model will be donated to the Alpine Eagle Foundation.
Chopard Imperiale
Elegance, luxury, accuracy, and femininity - all reminiscent of the grandeur of imperial history. The eponymous collection is a beautiful amalgamation of the skills of the Maison’s artisans, blending artistic crafts with horological prowess. The latest addition to the collection, a 36 mm-diameter timepiece, continues to uphold these standards. It features a diamond-set ethical 18-carat white gold casing and is powered by the Chopard 96.17-C movement. The watch also boasts a delicate mother-of-pearl and enamel marquetry dial, adding to its charm and appeal.
The Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea
Introducing the Perpetual Rolex Deepsea, now available in 18ct yellow gold. This watch pays homage to its underwater technology roots with a deep blue cerachrom insert that allows divers to track their time underwater. The watch also features a compression ring made of ceramic for ultra-waterproofing. The Hermès Cut watch collection features a round silhouette with the perfect simplicity of a circle. These watches are clean, simple, and joyful. We love the way they celebrate textures and colors, from their satin-brushed and polished cases to their luminescent Arabic numerals and rainbow-hued rubber straps.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar
In the world of ultra-thin watches, Piaget and Bulgari are leading the way, but Jaeger-LeCoultre is also keeping up with the competition. For Watches & Wonders 2024, the famous watchmaker has updated its iconic Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar model, reducing its thickness to just 9.2mm while also increasing its power reserve capacity. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced four new versions of the watch, available in eggshell and silver sunray dials, as well as a new model with a gradient midnight blue sunray dial that contrasts nicely with the pink gold case. The dial design and layout have also been improved, particularly the moon phase display, which now features more intricate starry skies. The applied hour markers have been elongated, and each facet of the Dauphine hands has a different finish – polished and satin. The modernised Calibre 868 movement powers each of the 39mm Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar models, which is an updated version of the brand's 2013 perpetual calendar movement. According to JLC, "the latest-generation Calibre 868 features a new escapement and pallets – reconstructed in a slightly modified shape, they minimise friction and thus consume less energy – and offers a robust power reserve of 70 hours
Panerai Sumbersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition
Panerai, the official partner of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team, is releasing a special edition watch called the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition, which will be limited to just 20 pieces. The watch is a tribute to the team's quest for the America’s Cup and showcases Panerai's highest level of watchmaking expertise, the Tourbillon.
The Submersible collection represents Panerai's modern dive watches, a brand that was originally known for making equipment for Italy's naval forces. The Luminor and Radiomir lines, while beautiful, are better suited to everyday wear than modern diving. This particular Submersible watch is quite impressive, measuring 45 mm in diameter and featuring an incredible, hand-wound movement. It has not only a 30-minute tourbillon but also a second time zone, a day/night indicator, and a power reserve indicator. The watch has a futuristic black/red/white colour scheme, made with an advanced case material based on carbon fibre. As a bonus, you can have a once-in-a-lifetime experience in Barcelona with this purchase. All of these features make for one heck of a dive watch. The release is scheduled for July 2024, just before the America's Cup finals. Owners of the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition will be invited to a unique experiential event curated by Panerai during the America's Cup finals in Barcelona.
Van Cleef and Arpels Lady Arpel Brise d’Été
Van Cleef & Arpels has added new creations to its Poetic Complications collection with a visually stunning watch called the Lady Arpels Brise D’Été. This watch is a sequel to the Lady Arpels Heures Florales, featuring summer flowers and fluttering butterflies in its design. The Lady Arpels Brise d'Été watch is a celebration of a fresh summer morning, housed in a 38mm diameter case and offering an impressive storytelling experience. With its on-demand automatic winding movements, you can animate the dial and watch as two plique-à-jour enamel butterflies flit around the dial to indicate the time. Additionally, background flowers in bluish vallonné enamel sway as if caught in the wind. The use of diamonds, tsavorite garnets, spessartite garnets, and white mother-of-pearl, all set in 18-karat white gold, only add to the watch's beauty.
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Nuit and Lady Jour Nuit
Van Cleef & Arpels is known for its unique and innovative approach to luxury watchmaking, and this year's Watches & Wonders 2024 event is no exception. The Maison has unveiled its latest creations, the 2024 Jour Nuit watches, which are a true embodiment of the brand's refined elegance and world-class manufacturing. The Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch was first introduced in 2008, and it has since become a masterpiece of high jewellery engineering. The watch features delicate and intricate dial designs and animations, which are brought to life by a diamond-paved moon and stars that chase the sun across a Murano aventurine glass dial.
The new variations come in both 38mm and 33mm sizes and reportedly took three years to complete. The perpetual movement of the watch is made possible by a 24-hour rotating disc, which ensures a consistent revolution. The snow-set yellow sapphires and guilloché yellow gold further enhance the beauty of the watch, while the mother-of-pearl shrouds frame the horizon, creating a remarkable piece of design and craftsmanship. As expected from Van Cleef & Arpels, the Jour Nuit watches are an impressive display of innovation and creativity.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph
The TAG Heuer Monaco watch is one of a kind with its unique design, case shape and history, making it the ultimate choice for those inclined towards racing-inspired horology. As a tribute to the 55th anniversary of the Monaco timepiece, TAG Heuer has introduced the Tag Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph with a special feature called rattrapante or split-seconds chronograph. This feature enables the watch to time two events that begin simultaneously but end independently, which is particularly useful during a car race. The watch's split-second hand and titanium dial arches pay a vibrant tribute to the original 1969 model. Additionally, the two colours available for this watch, sporty red and classic blue, are inspired by the original colours of the Monaco chronograph.
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