By Suman Tarafdar
North Indian food in restaurants – the overriding impression is one of thick, heavily spiced curries, swimming in fats – yes, those generous dollops of butter and ghee. Well, Loya, since its inception in Delhi about two years ago has challenged that stereotype by presenting a fresh take on what cuisine from the northern regions of the subcontinent could look like.
Loya has just opened its third outlet, at its flagship hotel, The Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai, occupying the space that Masala Craft has had for all decades. Bringing Loya to Mumbai was about more than introducing North Indian cuisine—it was about offering an immersive experience that celebrates the region's culinary heritage, techniques, and storytelling, says Chef Rajesh Wadhwa, Brand Head, Loya. Loya’s tagline – ‘journey through the heart of the north’, implies a deeper dive into the cuisines of the north of India. The name elicits times when communal feasts where everyone shared it was the order of the day.
Wadhwa recognises that north Indian cuisines are not exactly the first in order of preference of cuisines in the city. “Unlike Delhi, where North Indian flavours are deeply ingrained in everyday dining, Mumbai boasts a cosmopolitan palate with a penchant for global and coastal flavours,” points out Wadhwa. “This diversity presented an opportunity to showcase a broader spectrum of north Indian cuisine, moving beyond the familiar and into the realm of rare, heirloom recipes. The opportunity lay in crafting a menu that stayed true to Loya’s essence while resonating with Mumbai’s evolved and adventurous dining audience. Achieving this meant educating guests about the depth of flavours, the philosophy behind the dishes, and traditional techniques like Dhungar, Dum, Baghar, and Sigdi. Sourcing authentic ingredients, some unique to north India, was equally critical to maintaining the integrity of each preparation. Thus, to balance authenticity with approachability—creating a celebratory, theatrical experience that mirrors Mumbai’s vibrant spirit while preserving the timeless traditions of North Indian cooking.”
The look
The look of the restaurant continues from its earlier outposts. The look of the frontier is replicated on a sandy beige. Look out for grand arches, exquisite niches, intricate motifs, stone jalis and more, rendered perfectly with natural and aged textures. Beautiful brass lanterns set the mood for a meal, seemingly at some distant northwestern highway serai. Diyas at the table for dinner provide an extra touch of warmth.
The bar courtyard, sculpted with natural rocks and boulders and accentuated with a stunning waterfall, is designed to be reminiscent of the natural springs in the Himalayas. The distinctive furniture at Loya seeks inspiration from the traditional Indian ‘khatia’ and ‘peeda’ and has been crafted from logwood with copper embellishments. Vibrant drapes, vivid artworks, copper lanterns, intricate filigree ‘jaalis’, striking canopies and colourful awnings create a sense of nostalgia and are reminiscent of the erstwhile bustling bazaars of the North of India.
The open kitchen format allows interested guests to look at the various traditional cooking processes, behind glass screens of course. Prominently visible are chefs poring over processes such as dhungar, baghar, sigdi and dum.
The food
Instead of the usually creamy rich curries are delicate flavourful dishes, divided into courses - ‘Pella Swaad’ or appetisers, ‘Saajha Swaad’ / Mains and ‘Mittha’, desserts. From the Himalayan foothills, to Kashmir, from undivided Punjab and the upper reaches of the northern plains, these are recipes that bring alive home-style dishes, albeit with premium plating and ambience.
Loya Chaat to Timbri Jhinga, Attari Murgh, Malerkotla Keema Chole and Dum Nalli, the brand favourites are all in place. Ingredients are sourced from local regions, and yes, the availability of certain dishes depends on seasonality.
Begin with Loya Ki Chaat, an elevated take on North India’s chaat culture, or the Chainaki Soup, comforting and flavourful. For something unique, try the Cholai Seekh, a plant-forward innovation, or the Timbri Jheenga, featuring prawns prepared with a regional twist.
Yes, local influences are evident. “Loya Mumbai stays true to its north Indian culinary roots while embracing the city’s dynamic spirit through thoughtful local and seasonal adaptations,” says Wadhwa. “The menu incorporates coastal influences, featuring freshly sourced seafood prepared using traditional techniques, and evolves with Mumbai’s tropical climate, offering lighter, refreshing options during humid months. Regional twists include using local greens in the chaat sampler, kokum in the kadhi instead of yogurt, and an increased focus on seafood, reflecting the city’s abundant coastal produce.” Indeed, as the flow of dishes continues, it is evident that this Loya strays in its menu, reflecting the local ethos.
For the mains, try the Jwala Fish, a white snapper prepared with coastal influences and north Indian spices, or the Kangra Khodiya Gosht, a slow-cooked mutton preparation brimming with rich spice blends. The Bhangjeera Murgh offers nutty, earthy flavours with rare ingredients, while the Loya Kadhi and Kafuli present hearty vegetarian options that highlight traditional north Indian cooking techniques.
Loya’s bar menu expands on the Paanch cocktail philosophy, highlighting Indian spirits, fermentations, and infusions that resonate with Mumbai’s experimental cocktail culture. Yes, the boulders and waterfalls are all in place.
Loya at The Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai offers a multisensory experience that combines the richness of North Indian cuisine with a theatrical dining atmosphere, points out Wadhwa.
For the actual experience, make a reservation.
Call: 022-66653278 or email loya.tmhbom@tajhotels.com.
*Note, Loya welcomes young guests above 10 years of age.
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