JJ Valaya, hailed as the King of Chevron, has been a towering figure in Indian fashion since he founded the House of Valaya in 1992. His visionary designs have consistently drawn the attention of elegant men and women. Season after season, Valaya's creative passion breathes new life into his work, blending timeless elegance with classic modernity. Valaya's philosophy centres on enduring beauty rather than fleeting trends.
At the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024, in association with Reliance Brands and FDCI, the House of Valaya will unveil its latest collection, MURAQQA. This collection showcases rich textiles, fine crafts, and elegant detailing, expressed through three unique themes: Istanbul, inspired by Ottoman stencils and Art Deco geometry; Isfahan featuring Persian carpets and miniature paintings with a modern twist and Delh, highlighting Mughal inlays and flora and fauna motifs.
The collection includes a variety of luxurious fabrics, such as custom-woven silks and lush velvets. Women's wear features lehengas, saris, evening jackets, and outfits, while men's wear includes sherwanis, Nehru jackets, bandhgalas, and kurtas. Accessories like stoles and shawls complete the collection. The unique embroidery techniques and prints reflect the brand's Royal Nomad DNA, with a love for Art Deco. The use of aged metal, silk threads, beads, and crystals adds to the grandeur of Indian couture.
“This season, I am delighted to explore the poetic essence of Istanbul, Isfahan, and Delhi,” said JJ Valaya. “Their rich histories inspire me, embedding vivid footprints into the DNA of this collection. This multicultural journey has culminated in a bazaar of exquisite details, forming the inspiration for my Autumn-Winter 24-25 collection, MURAQQA.”
Ahead The Style List spoke to JJ Valaya to find out about the upcoming collection and the road ahead.
TSL: Your designs are often deeply rooted in cultural heritage. Can you share the specific cultural elements or historical periods that inspired this particular couture collection?
JJV: Our new collection, Muraqqa, is inspired by the historical concept of beautifully decorated albums from the Islamic world. These albums, called Muraqqa, compiled poems, miniature paintings, and other artistic treasures. The collection pays homage to three major capitals of Islamic art: Isfahan, Istanbul, and Delhi. We've reimagined the essence of these rich cultural centres in a contemporary context. Just as the traditional Muraqqa combined various artistic elements, our collection blends the aesthetic heritage of these civilizations. It offers a modern interpretation of their artistic legacies, creating a visual narrative that bridges past and present. Through this collection, we aim to celebrate the depth and beauty of Islamic art while presenting it in a fresh, modern way that resonates with today's audience. It's our way of creating a new Muraqqa—a curated album of fashion that tells the story of these great cultural capitals. We've always been known for pushing the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship.
TSL: What new techniques or materials have you experimented with in this collection?
JJV: Our approach to creating collections is based on evolution, not revolution. We focus on crafting timeless pieces of beauty, similar to exquisite carpets that maintain their allure through the generations. When asked about what's new, I stress that our core remains the same: creating beautiful things. The newness comes from subtle variations in intricacy, designs, colours, and techniques. We don't aim to be trendy or chase fads. Instead, JJ Valaya is a style brand dedicated to beautiful clothes and home decor. This is our DNA. Our latest collection, Muraqqa, embodies this philosophy with our signature colours, silks, velvets, meticulously crafted prints, and renowned embroideries. Our goal is to create pieces that stand the test of time and are appreciated now and for years to come. We believe in the magic of enduring beauty over fleeting trends. Each of our collections tells a story.
TSL: What narrative are you weaving with your latest couture collection, and how do the pieces reflect this storyline?
JJV: I firmly believe in making the most of our one life. My philosophy is centred around luxury, timelessness, style, and individuality. These are not just aspirational concepts but guiding principles that shape my personal and professional life. I aim to create and promote experiences that reflect these values, encouraging others to live deliberately and with a refined purpose. Our latest collection, Muraqqa, embodies this philosophy. It features our signature colours, luxurious fabrics like silks and velvets, meticulously crafted prints, and renowned embroideries. Our goal is to create pieces that stand the test of time and are appreciated now and for years to come. We believe in the magic of enduring beauty over fleeting trends.
TSL: Describe the modern JJ Valaya woman and man.
JJV: The modern JJ Valaya man and woman remain relevant because if your brand isn’t aligned with the times, it loses its connection with today’s audience. The challenge, however, is to create something so special that people remain committed to it, unlike fast fashion, which is quickly worn and discarded. Couture aims to create pieces that earn a lasting place in your wardrobe. Those who appreciate and respect true craftsmanship and the value of handwork are exactly the kind of people who embody the Valaya ethos.
As an Indian designer with a global audience, how do you ensure that your designs resonate with clients from different cultural backgrounds and different countries. As an artist and designer, my main goal is to connect the past and present through fashion. We rediscover historical treasures and reinterpret them using India's rich handcrafts, including embroidery, printing, dyeing, and weaving. Our work combines these traditional elements with contemporary design to create modern pieces that resonate with today's audience. This approach allows us to honour our cultural heritage while keeping it fresh and relevant. I believe the essence of a respected fashion house is to innovate while preserving tradition, creating designs that are both timeless and contemporary. If we can’t achieve this balance of artistry, craftsmanship, and modern appeal, we aren't fulfilling our role in the fashion industry. We are committed to pushing these boundaries, ensuring each collection offers a fresh and exciting take on our aesthetic, rooted in history but designed for today.
TSL: What are your future plans for both your couture line and JJV?
JJV: Our brand operates in both fashion and home verticals, and we're expanding in both areas. In fashion, we're developing ranges from ultra-luxury to bridge-to-luxury. Our home division includes luxury interior projects, furniture lines, carpets in collaboration with Opeedee, and tiles with FCML. We're committed to growing both portfolios, offering our distinct aesthetic across various price points and lifestyle products. This expansion allows us to bring the JJ Valaya experience to a broader audience while maintaining our luxury positioning.
TSL: Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you can share with us?
Our brand spans both fashion and home sectors, and we are expanding in both areas. In fashion, we are developing collections ranging from ultra-luxury to bridge-to-luxury. Our home division includes luxury interior projects, furniture lines, carpets in collaboration with Obeetee, and tiles with FCML. We are dedicated to growing both portfolios, delivering our unique aesthetic across various price points and lifestyle products. This expansion helps us reach a wider audience while maintaining our luxury positioning. Fashion often evokes strong emotions.
TSL: What feelings or experiences do you hope to elicit in those who wear and view your new collection?
JJV: I firmly believe in making the most of our one life. My philosophy revolves around luxury, timelessness, style, and individuality. These are not just aspirations but guiding principles that shape my personal and professional life. I aim to create and promote experiences that reflect these values, encouraging others to live with intention and a sense of refined purpose.
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