As Milan Men’s Fashion Week draws to a close, the city has once again solidified its status as a global fashion capital. This season, the week was filled with groundbreaking collections from fashion heavyweights like Prada, Armani, and Gucci. However, the spotlight was arguably stolen by Moschino's new creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, who opened the week with a stunning debut. Let's delve into the most notable collections from this season, examining the inspirations, silhouettes, and innovations each brand brought to the runway.
Moschino
Adrian Appiolaza’s debut collection for Moschino was a masterclass in theatricality and whimsy, staying true to the brand’s DNA while introducing fresh elements. The collection drew inspiration from classical art and modern pop culture, merging the two in a vibrant and eclectic showcase. Silhouettes ranged from oversized blazers with exaggerated shoulders to fitted jackets adorned with intricate embroidery, creating a dynamic visual narrative. Appiolaza’s use of bold colours and playful prints paid homage to Moschino’s iconic style, while innovative materials and construction techniques hinted at a new direction for the brand.
Gucci
Sabato De Sarno’s sophomore collection for Gucci, presented at the Triennale Milano, continued his exploration of the intersections between fashion and art. The theme of “Encounters” – or incontri – permeated the collection, symbolizing the blend of city and beach life, and the freedom and community of those spaces. De Sarno showcased long coats in wool and bonded leather with high vertical pockets, sharp three-button suits, and relaxed double-breasted jackets. Utility pieces like zip-up jackets and boxy leather jackets with contrast collars added a practical yet stylish edge. The coastal influence was evident in shirts with three pockets, trimmed with beaded fringe or applique embroidered flowers, creating a lively, vibrant collection. The accessories, from sculptural pointed-toe shoes to padded leather bags and bold sunglasses, completed the eclectic, carefree vibe.
Prada: A Fairytale Ravescape
Prada, under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, delivered one of the season’s defining collections within a ‘fairytale ravescape’ set. The collection was a reflection on youth, freedom, and optimism, featuring dynamic silhouettes that appeared to have ‘lived a life’. Purposefully creased and warped garments, short sleeves, and low-slung trousers gave the collection a worn-in, familiar feel. Trompe l'oeil Breton T-shirts and surreal prints added an element of surprise and whimsy. Enormous visor sunglasses with images of raves and highways, alongside prints by artist Bernard Buffet, further emphasized the theme of spontaneity and intuitive design.
Dhruv Kapoor: A Journey Through Time
Dhruv Kapoor’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection traced a personal journey from childhood to adulthood, using innovative ensembles to evoke nostalgia and curiosity. The collection featured an eclectic mix of oversized pieces, flared jeans, summer jorts, and cotton sheet-draped jackets, balancing raw and tailored aesthetics. Kapoor’s signature eye-catching details included handcrafted embroideries, elasticated waists, doodled florals, hand-painted grids, and engineered collage prints. The interplay of materials and colours, from hyperbrights to dull neutrals, underscored the collection’s inclusivity and timeless appeal. Collaborations with Italian shoemaker Marsèll, sustainable eyewear brand Junk Plastic Rehab, and jewellery brand Darkai added depth and texture to the collection.
ZEGNA: Celebrating Oasi Lino
Alessandro Sartori’s ZEGNA Summer 2025 collection celebrated Oasi Lino, a summer-ready textile that defined the season’s aesthetic. The collection opened with light green suits and progressed through a spectrum of neutral tones, pop-collared vests, and printed silk sets. Flowing formalwear and lightweight jackets emphasized comfort and style, while two-toned polos and matching short-shorts showcased Sartori’s playful approach. The collection culminated in a ZEGNA rainbow of colours, reflecting the joy and vibrancy of summer. Danish actor Mads Mikkelsen’s closing appearance added a touch of star power to an already impressive show.
Giorgio Armani: Timeless Elegance
Giorgio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was an exercise in understated elegance and classic Armani-isms. Unstructured tailoring, generous proportions, diaphanous shirts, and waistcoats dominated the runway. The palette of greige and navy, along with hazy palm-tree-frond prints and straw hats, evoked a sense of leisurely travel. Armani’s refusal to rely on seasonal gimmicks or elaborate sets allowed the clothing to take centre stage, showcasing the timeless quality and quiet sophistication for which the designer is renowned.
Fendi: A Centennial Celebration
Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, celebrated the house’s centenary with a dive into its rich archives. The collection featured a crest comprising four of the house’s motifs, including the double F emblem, which adorned sweaters and shirts. Striped knit rugby sweaters, plaid jackets, school blazers, and football shirt-inspired pieces created a varsity feel, reflecting a sense of team spirit and camaraderie. The playful yet refined collection paid homage to Fendi’s legacy while looking forward to the next century.
Dolce & Gabbana: Effortless Italian Beauty
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s latest menswear collection shifted towards a softer, more relaxed aesthetic, inspired by Italian summers and actors like Marcello Mastroianni. Raffia jackets and oversized polo shirts, double-breasted suits with pleated trousers, and embroidery and embellishment brought a touch of effortless elegance to the runway. The collection’s nostalgic charm and sophisticated tailoring highlighted the designers’ ability to reinvent their signature style while remaining true to their roots.
TODS
Amidst the rapid advancement of artificial intelligence, Tod's remains steadfast in championing artisanal craftsmanship and human-centric values. By integrating the precision of AI with the timeless expertise of artisans, Tod's prioritizes individual skills and craftsmanship in its pursuit of ethical innovation. The Pashmy project epitomizes Tod's commitment to excellence, featuring materials known for their softness, lightness, and luxurious silky touch. This exclusive collection includes the Bomber, Gio Jacket, Shirt Jacket, new Di Bag sack, and iconic Tod's T-Riviera and luxury sneakers. Under Creative Director Matteo Tamburini, Tod's inaugural Men's Collection emphasizes superior materials and meticulous detailing. From innovative linens in outerwear to updated Gommino and Bubble Gommino footwear, each piece blends Italian style with modern functionality.
Tod's continues to redefine luxury with new Di Bag variations and T Timeless accessories, reflecting its dedication to timeless elegance and practical luxury. As Tod's navigates the future, it reaffirms its role in advancing the legacy of Made in Italy through innovation and craftsmanship.
JW Anderson: Cosy and Quirky
JW Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection embraced comfort and whimsy with quilted duvet coats, "Guinness" knitwear, and cosy, padded silhouettes. The show space, adorned with twinkling light bulbs, set the stage for a collection that balanced dramatic and cartoonish elements. Enlarged and exaggerated silhouettes, bunched-up boots, and thigh-grazing bomber coats showcased Anderson’s playful approach to design. The introduction of the brand’s first-ever eyewear collection added a new dimension to the quirky, avant-garde aesthetic.
Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 was a testament to the creativity and innovation of the fashion industry’s leading designers. From Moschino’s theatrical debut to Prada’s whimsical ravescape, each collection offered a unique perspective on modern menswear, blending tradition with forward-thinking design. As the fashion world looks ahead to the next season, these collections will undoubtedly continue to influence and inspire.