As the calendar flips to the last week of July, the fashion world turns its gaze to the capital. India Couture Week 2024 in association with Reliance Brands, an Initiative by FDCI, commenced its eight-day extravaganza at the Taj Palace, Chanakyapuri in New Delhi. The event promises fourteen showcases featuring the crème de la crème of Indian fashion. From the renowned Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta to industry stalwarts Tarun Tahiliani and Falguni Shane Peacock, the runway will be adorned with the finest examples of Indian couture. As the global fashion calendar heats up, India offers a counterpoint with a celebration of unparalleled artistry. Each collection is a harmonious blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics, showcasing opulent textiles, intricate embroidery, and innovative silhouettes that encapsulate the nation's rich cultural heritage and modern sensibilities. This year's edition is anticipated to be a visual spectacle, with designers unveiling their latest creations that epitomize Indian luxury. Expect to be mesmerized by exquisite handwork, sumptuous fabrics, and groundbreaking designs that redefine the boundaries of couture. As the runway illuminates, each ensemble will narrate a tale of elegance and artistry, reflecting India's vibrant cultural tapestry while embracing contemporary trends.
Here are the highlights from the India Couture Week 2024.
ASAL and Mard By Abu Sandeep
Renowned couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla made a royal entry as the inaugural designers of India Couture Week 2024. Their opulent showcase, titled 'Rani Aur Raj Kumar', under the labels Asal and Mard, dazzled the Delhi audience with its grandeur, glamour, and extravagance, setting a formidable benchmark for the fashion extravaganza to follow.
Their show, a riot of colour, opulence, and unabashed luxury, was a testament to their unparalleled ability to push the boundaries of fashion. The ‘Disco Mujra’ theme, set against a lavish haveli backdrop, was a bold statement that perfectly encapsulated the designers’ penchant for drama. The show was introduced with wit and charm by stand-up comedian Sumukhi Suresh, complemented by a captivating original soundtrack from musician duo Akshay and IP, whose Punjabi beats mesmerized the audience. The collection, a tribute to the harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, was a vivid celebration of the past and present. ASAL’s bridal line, 'Rani Aur Raj Kumar,' and Mard by Abu Sandeep’s offerings paid homage to the impeccable craftsmanship of the designers’ rich archives, while embracing modern elegance.
Abu Sandeep eloquently expressed their vision: “We aim to celebrate the spirit of love between modern couples, where the bride elegantly carries her cultural heritage and the groom exudes contemporary sophistication.” The ‘Asal Bride’ collection honoured today’s bride by merging old-world charm with contemporary grace, ensuring everyone in the grand Indian wedding could indulge in sartorial splendour.
The regal theme continued with ‘The Regal Groom of Mard,’ highlighting a shift in men's fashion towards maximalist elegance. Details included intricate Resham embroideries, glamorous mirrors, and reinvented classics like embroidered front-open jackets and dramatically bordered sherwanis. Showstopper Wamiqa Gabbi captivated the audience first in an Ivory Trail Lehenga from the ‘Botanical Bloom’ line and later as a majestic bride in a Red Lehenga from the ‘Bridal Gota’ collection. Taha Shah Badussha, the heart-throb from Heeramandi, left a lasting impression in an olive silk kurta embellished with crystal-encrusted birds, paired with regal brocade pants and a Zardozi belt, epitomizing opulence and sophistication.
RoseRoom by Isha J
On day 2, Isha Jajodia’s ‘Art of Eternity’ offered a refreshing counterpoint to the often opulent and heavily embellished world of Indian couture. By drawing inspiration from the architectural elegance of France and the delicate beauty of nature, Jajodia has created a collection that is both sophisticated and understated.
Central to the collection is a harmonious blend of traditional Indian craftsmanship and contemporary Western aesthetics. The use of chikankari, a delicate Indian embroidery technique, is juxtaposed with the structured lines and architectural motifs inspired by French design. "Every time I travel, whether within India or abroad, I notice intricacies that stay with me," says Jajodia. "For 'Art of Eternity,' I blended my awe of French architecture with traditional Chikankari craftsmanship to create a bridal collection that epitomizes old-world beauty and modern aesthetics."
The RoseRoom by Isha Jajodia woman is confident, chic, and graceful. "Art of Eternity" weaves French sophistication with floral motifs and intricate lace, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary flair. The collection features delicate fabrics, bold silhouettes, and fine details that evoke grace and refinement. Jajodia's designs blend vintage elegance with modern sophistication, creating wearable art.
Jajodia's choice of fabrics and silhouettes is equally noteworthy. The prevalence of soft, fluid fabrics like chiffon and organza lends an ethereal quality to the garments, while structured elements like corsets and peplum details provide a contemporary edge. The colour palette, dominated by muted pastels and classic whites, further enhances the collection's refined and elegant character.
Actress Jacqueline Fernandez closed the show in a dreamy gown adorned with delicate lace and intricate fringes, cascading into a mesmerizing fish-cut silhouette. The off-shoulder neckline and specially crafted cape added an enchanting touch of sophistication and dramatic flair. By prioritizing silhouette and fabric over excessive embellishment, Jajodia has created a collection that is both wearable and luxurious. ‘Art of Eternity’ is a testament to the designer’s ability to reinterpret traditional couture for the modern woman, offering a fresh perspective on bridal and evening wear.
Suneet Varma
Suneet Varma’s ‘Nazm’ is a dreamy ode to classic Bollywood glamour with a contemporary twist. The collection is a visual feast of intricate embroidery, opulent fabrics, and ethereal silhouettes. Varma’s signature use of light, flowing fabrics and delicate embellishments is evident, but this time with a bolder emphasis on drama. The addition of voluminous ruffles, 3D constructions, and a richer colour palette gives the collection a fresh, modern feel.
Drawing inspiration from India’s rich decorative arts heritage, he has crafted a collection that is both deeply rooted in tradition and undeniably contemporary. Varma's signature use of delicate fabrics, such as soft metallic tissue and fluid chiffons, is evident throughout the collection. However, ‘Nazm’ also introduces a bolder aesthetic with the use of voluminous ruffles, intricate 3D embellishments, and a richer colour palette. The designer’s exploration of asymmetrical silhouettes and farshi shararas is a welcome departure from his usual repertoire. These modern elements breathe new life into traditional silhouettes, creating a sense of dynamism and energy. However, the excessive use of embellishments and heavy layering in some pieces can detract from the overall impact of the collection.
Siddartha Tytler
Siddartha Tytler’s ‘Caligula’s Feast’ is a dramatic departure from his usual opulent aesthetic. The designer, known for his lavish and feminine creations, has ventured into darker, more theatrical territory with this collection. Inspired by the infamous Roman Emperor, Tytler has transformed the runway into a decadent spectacle, complete with a Roman feast-themed set.
While his signature craftsmanship and attention to detail remain intact, the emphasis on sharp silhouettes, dramatic drapes, and masculine elements is a bold new direction. The inclusion of menswear pieces, including sherwanis and suits, is a surprising yet intriguing addition. The collection's colour palette, dominated by deep jewel tones and punctuated with metallic accents, further underscores the departure from Tytler's softer aesthetic. While some might argue that the collection lacks the romanticism often associated with his work, there's no denying the impact and grandeur of ‘Caligula’s Feast’.
Malaika Arora and Rahul Khanna turned show-stoppers for the night. While Malaika Arora and Rahul Khanna closed the show with a bang. Malaika stunned in a dramatic, armoured-inspired blouse paired with a lavishly embellished lehenga, embodying the collection's opulent theme. Rahul complemented her in a sleek, modern sherwani, adding a touch of masculine elegance to the extravagant runway. The duo’s on-stage chemistry added an extra spark to the show, making them the perfect choice for showstoppers.
Kunal Rawal
Kunal Rawal’s ‘Sehra’ collection, named after the traditional ornate headgear worn by Indian grooms, beautifully blends tradition and modernity. It features sumptuous silks, opulent brocades, intricate bandhani, and dhup chao threadwork. Innovative interpretations of French knots and daring micro motifs adorn each garment, spotlighting gender-fluid fashion, and bold colours like red for grooms, and men's jewellery. Drawing inspiration from positive omens deeply rooted in Indian wedding traditions, Rawal’s creations highlight the androgynous ethos of the brand. This festive couture collection reflects a seamless blend of rich traditions and modern luxury that epitomizes opulent Indian weddings.
The atmosphere was electric as Aditya Roy Kapur took the stage as the showstopper on Day 3, wearing a striking blue sherwani with patola-inspired motifs in gunmetal hues, paired with a voluminous denim Patiala. Adding to the evening’s allure, stylist Anaita Shroff Adajania showcased a menswear-inspired billowy shahara and jacket set, emphasizing androgynous fashion with minimalistic makeup and hair.
Kunal Rawal's collection is a bold and refreshing departure from traditional Indian wedding wear. By challenging gender stereotypes and embracing a fluid approach to fashion, Rawal has managed to create a collection that is both deeply rooted in Indian heritage and strikingly contemporary. The designer’s decision to adorn male models with intricate jewellery and experiment with colour palettes typically reserved for women is a powerful statement about the evolving landscape of menswear. While the collection unquestionably exudes opulence and craftsmanship, it is Rawal’s willingness to experiment that sets it apart. The infusion of modern elements into classic silhouettes creates a sense of dynamism and excitement.
Dolly J
Dolly J opened day 4 of the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024, with her collection La Vie En Rose. The show unfolds like a fairy tale, embracing timeless elegance through contemporary craftsmanship. Dolly J's haute couture this season begins with a nostalgic "once upon a time..." theme, creating an escapist realm where time halts and beauty reigns supreme.
Intricate embroideries and flirtatious floral motifs transport viewers to a world frozen in eternal beauty. Shimmering fabrics—iridescent tissues, tulle, chiffons, and silk organzas—accentuated with delicate laces define each silhouette, embodying the theme with signature shimmer. Each garment exudes a delicate balance of lightness and structured femininity, blending vulnerability with strength through meticulous corsetry details. La Vie En Rose captures a moment of opulence and fantasy, where beauty and grandeur merge in a timeless tableau.
Sonakshi Sinha stole the spotlight as the show-stopper, gracing the runway in a pastel pink gown with ethereal net sleeves and a sweeping trail. Adorned with exquisite beadwork and delicate floral motifs, she exuded an ethereal charm, perfectly capturing the collection's enchanting elegance.
JJ Valaya
JJ Valay presented his couture collection MURAQQA at the Hyundai India Couture Week last evening.
'MURAQQA' is an ode to the designer's 30-year legacy, expertly wove together the rich artistic traditions of Isfahan, Istanbul, and Delhi with a modern twist. Galactic embroidery adorned billowy skirts, while structured drapes showcased the brand's hallmark fine craftsmanship. Bringing back to life the beauty of bridal reds and blacks interspersed with beige, blues and brown tones, spotted on the runway was a play of rich fabrics like velvet, net and silk. In the words of the designer, “Muraqqa, is inspired by the historical concept of beautifully decorated albums from the Islamic world. These albums, called Muraqqa, compiled poems, miniature paintings, and other artistic treasures. The collection pays homage to three major capitals of Islamic art: Isfahan, Istanbul, and Delhi.”
From sarees to lehengas, floor-length embellished capes and jackets, the pieces were complimented by stunning jewellery from Isvari India, for grooms sherwanis were teamed with opulent jewellery and colourful safaas. Intricate detailing that celebrates the craft of Islam and outfits with subtle hints of chevron that the designer is well known for.
The set design drew inspiration from the beautifully decorated albums of the Islamic world with live music and tones that further gave it a nod. Overall the collection demonstrated the label’s signature blend of royalty, nomadism, and Art Deco influences. With silhouettes that were evergreen JJ Valaya further solidifies his stance on crafting timeless pieces of beauty that maintain their allure through the generations.
Amit Aggarwal
On Day 5 of the couture week, Amit Aggarwal unveiled his breathtaking collection, "Antevotra," named after the Roman goddess associated with the future. The collection championed fluidity and liquid clothing in metallics, with dramatic sculptural silhouettes taking centre stage. Drawing inspiration from the Greek goddess of the future, the collection explores the profound link between time and the cosmos. Known for his signature blend of opulence and innovation, Aggarwal’s designs in this collection are a mesmerizing reflection of time's influence, manifested through intricate embroideries, celestial motifs, and fluid silhouettes.
Futuristic sarees, dramatic headgear, and exquisite 3-D constructions were the mainstays of Aggarwal’s presentation. Bringing to life his signature futuristic sculptural pieces, the collection featured a range of three-dimensional constructions, from angels to butterflies. Pushing boundaries, the designer not only experimented with his classic metallics but also incorporated Banarasi fabric to create a futuristic vision of the six-yard drape. Shimmers remained a classic element across menswear, with blacks, pastels, and reds defining the colour palette. A standout silhouette was a beige gown that represented a butterfly, while shades of pastels, reds, black, and grey further enriched the collection's crisp colour palette.
Aggarwal once again brought his love for three-dimensional embroideries and metallics to the stage. Overall, the collection infused a contemporary modern soul into heirloom textiles, earning admiration and applause.
Rahul Mishra
Unveiling his Festive Fall Couture Collection, Nargis, Rahul Mishra's iconic floral motifs and elegant, nature-inspired creations took centre stage on Day 5 of the Hyundai India Couture Week. Nargis unfolded as a dreamy floral fantasy, opening with the stunning Lisa Ray in a pristine ivory gown adorned with intricate embellishments and a sweeping net train, setting the tone for a collection that championed elegance.
Mishra's collection highlights his deep connection with nature and its myriad experiences, from caressing flowers and fruit in a garden to listening to birdsong. Like an escapist's dream, this collection captures the view from a home window overlooking lush greenery, brimming with florals, birds, and fruits. This vision of a garden fom a cosy, love-filled room translates into intricate embroidery and artwork, telling real-life anecdotes through each piece.
The collection, reminiscent of a fairytale, features pastel hues interspersed with vibrant pops of electric green, red, and indigo. The designs are adorned with aari threadwork, bugle beads, kundan, rhinestone crystals, glass beads, freshwater pearls, sequins, and nakshi pita work, creating vibrant and textured surfaces. Celebrating the namesake flower, Nargis, the collection offers a range of pieces from lehengas and sarees with caped fringes to embellished pantsuits and flowing Anarkali dresses. Menswear remains classic with sherwanis and innovative plays on length, reinforcing Mishra's bond with nature and the timeless beauty of a garden in full bloom.
Jayanti Reddy
Monday opened with Aditi Rao Hydari adding a touch of glamour to Jayanti Reddy's showcase at India Couture Week 2024, titled Evocative Nawabi Canvas. Dressed in a gold-embellished sharara set with a subtle peplum, Aditi exuded sophistication. Hailing from Hyderabad, Reddy drew inspiration from the city’s rich cultural heritage and Nawabi influences, evident in their ornate high jewellery and opulent wardrobes.
Reddy’s collections consistently reflect heritage and historical influences steeped in symbolism and craftsmanship. Her latest collection, featuring approximately 40 looks, is a captivating Nizami canvas where heritage textiles converse with antique motifs. It evokes a time in India's regal past when luxury was defined by meticulous handwork, sartorial finesse, and a commitment to slow fashion.
Spotted on the runway were contemporary Indian silhouettes as well as traditional Indian ensembles ranging from draped sarees to corsets with lehengas, one-shoulder kaftans with wide-legged pants, cape blouses and fringe detailing. The contemporary pieces were beautifully juxtaposed with the opulence and regal flair of traditional Indian couture and the colour palette was a stunning mix of ivory, bridal red and blacks. Jayanti Reddy's India Couture Week collection is a vibrant blend of culture, colour, couture, and poetry. It showcases traditional embroideries inspired by the royals of Hyderabad and their lavish lifestyles
Gaurav Gupta
Celebrity favourite Gaurav Gupta, renowned for his dramatic couture, made a striking appearance on the runway at India Couture Week 2024. After skipping Paris Couture Week, his return was eagerly anticipated and did not disappoint. His collection, Arunodaya, showcased his signature sculptural masterpieces adorned with intricate details.
Arunodaya, meaning early dawn, symbolises hope, renewal, and infinite possibilities. The colour palette echoed the early morning sky with shades of white, ivory pearl, comet blue, petal pink, mauve, slate, sand, bordeaux, and lava. Intricate embroideries such as Indian Zardozi, cage embroidery, and colourful details enhanced the narrative. Playing with fabrics, sheer materials evoked the lightness of dawn, while high-end couture pieces like opulent lehengas, saree gowns, and draped sarees took centre stage. Futuristic elements, including metallic breastplates and reflective embroidery on men's jackets, added a contemporary touch, heralding a new era in Indian couture. The couturier’s signature sculpting art weaved throughout the collection, emphasizing his innovative approach.
The show concluded with Bollywood's new generation, Vedang Raina and Khushi Kapoor, as showstoppers. Khushi wore a fitted mermaid skirt and an off-shoulder blouse with sleeves, paired with a shoulder cape. Her outfit, in a mesmerizing sand hue, was adorned with thousands of dripping crystals, pearls, and Zardozi embroidery. Vedang sported a black velvet long jacket featuring intricate refraction embroidery.
Rimzim Dadu
The second last day of the Hyundai India Couture Week saw Rimzim Dadu's imaginative STUCCO collection kickstart the day. Fluidity in terms of metallic clothing and a seamless blend of historical opulence and modern innovation, merging Baroque architectural grandeur with Dadu’s avant-garde style was the key takeaway. Dadu’s latest is a fascinating blend of historical luxury and modern innovation, a signature of the label.
Celebrating 18 years of creative journey, Dadu revisits and reinvents some of her earliest works, showcasing her studio, fondly called “the Lab,” as a hotspot for constant textile and surface experimentation. The collection is a feast for the senses, featuring metallic yarns, steel wires, and traditional zardozi embroidery. Each garment is intricately detailed with Baroque carvings and gilded touches, offering a tactile experience that captures the luminosity of Baroque interiors.
The collection's exaggerated silhouettes include corseted tops, modern lehengas, sculptural sarees, and menswear like sherwanis and tuxedos. Dominated by deep ruby reds, antique golds, and burnt oranges, these pieces reflect the richness of Baroque art and highlight the play of light and shadow, a hallmark of both Baroque design and Dadu’s unique style.
Closing the show with flair, Shobhita Dukuoalia dazzled in a white coord set featuring a fringe skirt and a bustier adorned with pearl detailing. It was a fitting finale to a collection that beautifully bridges the past and present.
Tarun Tahiliani
Tarun Tahiliani's couture collection, aptly named Otherworldly, brought a mesmerizing blend of craftsmanship and comfort to the runway. This collection breaks free from the traditional confines of couture, offering women the luxury of wearing exquisite designs without sacrificing comfort.
The collection was a vibrant showcase of traditional crafts like Kashidakar and Mukaish, reimagined with a contemporary twist. Intricate silk chikankari work, pearl detailing, Swarovski crystals, and hand embroidery with aari and zardozi seamlessly blended the old with the new.
A soothing pastel colour palette, punctuated with vibrant hues of orange and red, graced the runway. Tahiliani redefined Indian couture by championing lightweight ensembles that moved effortlessly with the wearer. Flowing lehengas, intricately draped sarees, and structured bodices offered a perfect balance of being risqué yet safe, revealing yet never vulgar, playful yet serious. Each design aimed for a modern yet timeless elegance, steering clear of the ostentation of nouveau fashion. The collection also featured micro short suits with bustiers and structured blazers. Honouring Indian craftsmanship, corseted lehengas and sarees, flowing capes, sharara sets, and plenty of sparkle were key silhouettes.
For men, Tahiliani's designs included elaborate drapes, dhotis, and a 90s retro vibe with wide-legged pants and blazers. Sharp, tailored silhouettes, intricately embroidered sherwanis, modern bandhgalas, and crisp kurtas, dominated by a black colour palette, made a strong statement. The show artfully contrasted embroidered motifs on sheer fabrics against marble jaalis, balancing tradition and modernity. Each silhouette was designed to be lightweight and comfortable, perfect for the modern bride. Narrow veils ensured ease of pinning, finer nets, and velvet staples shifted the focus to bridal comfort.
Ranging from calming pastels to sunflower yellows, dull reds, indigo blues, and blacks for men, Otherworldly captured Tahiliani's love for India Modern. The collection celebrated Indian savoir-faire through impeccable tailoring, sculptured fits, refreshed draping styles, and a pale spectrum of colours reminiscent of a dust storm or the first bloom.
Falguni and Shane
Falguni Shane Peacock marked their two decades in fashion with a grand finale at FDCI's Hyundai India Couture Week 2024. Their collection, Rang Mahal, was a sumptuous ode to India's royal heritage, featuring luxurious fabrics, intricate embroideries, and a vibrant colour palette. The designers collaborated with Swadesh to incorporate exquisite Indian textiles, such as Kanjivaram silks and Banarasi brocades, into their haute couture creations. The showcase was further elevated by Tanishq's stunning jewellery collections. Their "Enchanted Trails" line, inspired by nature's beauty, and the classic Ethereal Wonders collection, adorned with rare gemstones, complemented the opulent fashion ensembles.
With Rang Mahal, Falguni Shane Peacock paid homage to India's rich cultural tapestry, drawing inspiration from iconic symbols, palaces, and lifestyles. The collection was a visual feast, showcasing the unparalleled craftsmanship of Indian artisans. The grand finale was made even more spectacular with the presence of Bollywood stars Vicky Kaushal and Rashmika Mandanna as showstoppers. Their glamorous appearances in Falguni Shane Peacock's creations added a touch of stardom to the already opulent event.
*All Image Courtesy: FDCI
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