Handlooms have been an integral part of India's rich cultural heritage, symbolizing the country's diverse and ancient textile traditions. National Handloom Day is a reminder of the importance of preserving and celebrating this invaluable heritage.
On August 7, 1905, The Swadeshi Movement began and was significant for the handloom industry. The goal of the movement was to increase domestic production while reducing reliance on imports. Since then, August 7 has been celebrated as National Handloom Day. The day honours the handloom weavers and recognises their role in the country's economy and culture.
Discover the significance of National Handloom Day, and how contemporary designers are preserving and innovating traditional crafts to keep this cultural heritage alive.
A brief history
Looking back at the history, Indian Handloom dates back to the Indus Valley civilization. In earlier times, almost every village had its own weavers who made all the clothing requirements. Traditionally, the entire process of cloth making was self-reliant; everything was hand-spun and hand-woven. During British rule, India was turned into an exporter of raw cotton and the country was flooded with machine-made imported yarn. This resulted in a complete loss of livelihoods first for the spinners and dependence of handloom weavers on machine yarn. During British rule, India was turned into an exporter of raw cotton and the country was flooded with machine-made imported yarn. This resulted in a complete loss of livelihoods first for the spinners and dependence of handloom weavers on machine yarn.
To revive the handlooms of India, Mahatma Gandhi started the Swadeshi Movement and reintroduced hand spinning in the name of Khadi. Every Indian was urged to spin the yarn using Charkhas and wear Khadi which was a huge turning point in the Indian independence movement. On August 7, 1905, The Swadeshi Movement began and was significant for the handloom industry. The goal of the movement was to increase domestic production while reducing reliance on imports.
Post Independence, since 1985, and especially post-90s liberalisation, the handloom sector had to face competition from cheap imports and design imitations from power looms. Unable to compete with cheaper poly-mixed fabrics, many weavers are quitting weaving and going for unskilled labour work. Today, in India there are different styles of weaving in different parts of the country, and sometimes in the same region, there could be as wide a range as 20-30 varied styles. From simple plain fabrics, Tribal motifs, geometric designs, tye and dye, to exhaustive art on muslin. Despite these challenges, the handloom industry remains a vital source of income for many and empowers women, who make up over 70% of its workforce.
The handloom industry is a significant source of income for the nation.
The handloom industry empowers women and women make up over 70% of handloom industry employees
Designers who champion handlooms
In an era dominated by mass production and fast fashion, a select group of designers remains steadfastly committed to the age-old tradition of handlooms. National Handloom Day is a reminder of the importance of preserving and celebrating this invaluable heritage. Designers like Khushi Shah, of Shanti Banaras, Archana Jaju, Sarika Kakrania, Gautam Gupta, Sangeeta Kilachand, Gaurang Batra, and Sagrika Rai exemplify how traditional crafts can be revitalized and made relevant in contemporary fashion. Their work not only supports the livelihoods of artisans but also ensures that the rich cultural legacy of Indian handlooms continues to thrive.
Khushi Shah, Creative Director, Shanti Banaras
Khushi Shah, Creative Director of Shanti Banaras, emphasizes the centrality of handlooms to her brand,
"Handlooms are at the heart of Shanti Banaras' designs. They represent a rich tradition of craftsmanship and heritage. The intricate weaving techniques and unique textures bring unmatched elegance to our collections, making each piece a work of art." On preserving India's cultural heritage through handlooms, she adds, "Handlooms reflect diverse traditions passed down through generations. Initially cherished for their craftsmanship, they are now also recognized for their environmental benefits. This shift merges traditional artistry with contemporary demands for sustainability, revitalizing the handloom sector."
Archana Jaju, Creative Director, Archana Jaju
Archana Jaju, Creative Director of Archana Jaju, shares a similar sentiment "Handlooms are central to my design philosophy. They represent a deep connection to India’s cultural heritage, showcasing the artistry and skill of our artisans. Incorporating handlooms into my designs celebrates this rich history and craftsmanship." On the evolving significance of handlooms, she notes, "Handlooms capture the essence of traditional Indian weaving techniques. As we shift towards more sustainable fashion, handlooms offer an eco-friendly alternative to mass-produced textiles. This modern focus on sustainability has revitalized interest in handlooms, bridging the gap between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary fashion."
Sarika Kakrania, Founder, Pink City by Sarika
"Handlooms are central to our design philosophy, reflecting our commitment to preserving India’s rich cultural heritage. These traditional fabrics are more than just materials; they are a testament to timeless craftsmanship. Over the years, we’ve blended handloom techniques with contemporary styles, ensuring that each piece not only celebrates our heritage but also resonates with modern aesthetics, bridging the past and the present."
"Handlooms are the lifeblood of India's cultural legacy, intricately weaving stories of tradition, artistry, and craftsmanship into each piece. As a couture fashion brand deeply rooted in Indian handicrafts and weaves, we cherish how handlooms have evolved, merging heritage with modernity. We are the only country with such rich craft, and with design intervention, we can be the game changers in global fashion, creating timeless, sustainable pieces that celebrate our vibrant heritage." Gautam Gupta, Co-Owner of Label Asha Gautam
Sangeeta Kilachand, Founder of Sangeeta Kilachand Heritage Clothing
"We have always stood for the preservation and celebration of Indian heritage textiles and artisanship. I began this brand because of my love for ancient textiles, and Sangeeta Kilachand Heritage Clothing thrives at fostering and reviving these forgotten techniques that evoke a regal eloquence – one stitch at a time. In an age of fast fashion, it is easy to forget just how much our country has to offer through our craftspeople. Many of our embroidery techniques are age-old and can easily be forgotten in history – I take pride in reviving and supporting these techniques via my brand. We are living in a time when more people are becoming aware of our rich history and are more appreciative of our cultural offerings. The significance of our Indian handlooms is such that they allow us to represent India in all its glory, via beautiful and timeless clothing that will never go out of style."
Gaurang Batra, Creative Director of Raas Saris by Frontier Raas
"At Raas Saris by Frontier Raas, we're dedicated to evolving the sari into a stylish, contemporary piece while respecting its deep-rooted heritage. Our collections celebrate the remarkable work of our artisans, who blend creativity with craftsmanship to revitalize each saree. Through our weaving masterclasses, we are passionate about keeping this art form alive and thriving."
Sagrika Rai, Founder and Creative Director of Warp ‘n Weft
"I have grown up with the razzmatazz of the looms buzzing in my ears, the fibres of yarns like pollen in the air, and the aromas of degummed silk in my soul. At Warp ‘n Weft, handloom art is pivotal to our philosophy. It’s about the artisans and master weavers who are the heart of the brand. We believe in the provenance we create, with the heritage they weave. Each motif and design is a narrative of our deep-rooted culture and threads the dots of history, bringing them to life in our innovations in handloom textiles. We work together with our craftsmen and artists to develop and fruition new concepts year after year, building on our age-old tradition. We honour our cultural legacy and hope to humbly uplift sustainable economic development in rural and semi-urban clusters of India and rekindle the glory of Banarasi who once travelled the silk route. In doing so, we ensure that this beautiful tradition continues to thrive, touching lives and connecting us to our rich past. Our inspirations and design aesthetics are mindful of this responsibility."
Empowering Artisans
Today, the handloom sector continues to face challenges from cheap imports and power loom imitations. Despite this, it remains a significant source of income for many, especially women, who make up over 70% of its workforce. The SEWA Centre in Gujarat and Anita Dongre’s collaboration exemplify efforts to empower women in the artisan and handloom industry. Anita Dongre highlighted the impact of this partnership at the launch of her bridal collection Raahi in New Delhi, stating, “SEWA and Anita Dongre together have provided 2.9 million artisan jobs. For these women, their craft brings joy, happiness, and colour to their lives.” This collaboration has significantly reduced migration by 92%, enhancing the lives of these artisans.
Initiatives like the SEWA Centre in Gujarat and Anita Dongre’s collaboration have shown how empowering women in the artisan and handloom industry can lead to significant social and economic benefits. In an age where fast fashion often overshadows traditional crafts, these designers are beacons of hope, demonstrating that handlooms can still be central to modern aesthetics.
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