Gucci made its way to Tate Modern to unravel the Cruise 2025 collection amidst the backdrop of a modern garden of Eden at the Tate Modern Museum in London. As Sabato de Sarno’s first destination Cruise show for the luxury house, he paid tribute to the Swinging Sixties and the city of London."We choose London for the Cruise show, knowing that was the right choice. I owe a lot to this city, it has welcomed and listened to me,” said Sabato De Sarno. The show paid tribute to the city's deep and meaningful influence on Gucci’s heritage, and Sabato's personal experiences. Within the collection, unexpected juxtapositions and unanticipated rendezvous unfolded as signature styles were interspersed with heritage Gucci pieces.
Speaking on the collection Sarno expressed, "Fashion design is a means to study, explore, interpret. After expressing my ideas of desirability and sensuality, this is another piece of me, more romantic and contradictory. I like taking something we think we know and breaking away from its rules, taking it as far as it can go, without ever distorting it. Bringing it towards its opposite and finding harmony.”
The collection brought to life his vision with dichotomies as codes of dressing and properness were subverted. Preppy, chic, sexy and nerdy were married in harmony as Sabato unveiled the cruise collection. Structured blazers were juxtaposed with delicately pleated, ethereal floor-length maxi dresses reminiscent of the 60s, and oversized white shorts were paired with embellished denim featuring bead tassels. Sharply tailored short coats were juxtaposed with wild chamomile floral motifs creating a contrast of shrapness and a softness against the body. The flower embroideries employed new techniques executed in 3-D in laser-cut organza, assembled by hand or hand-moulded sequins, freely moving around the body. A feeling of protection and preciousness in outerwear was set in opposition with chiffons, ruffles, and lace. Simply put, the creations were like evening wear meeting everyday wear.
Symbols of British style like tartans and tailored clothing, along with Gucci's trademarks, and traditional plaids are now being seen as delicately embroidered bead fringes. The Gucci Blondie bag, which originated in Italy in the early 70s, mixes luxury with practicality by being worn on the shoulder and featuring the iconic logo covered in leather or enhanced with a technique inspired by Gucci's jewellery.
From workwear merged with sartorial aesthetics, like blazers and lace, to streetwear fused with salon, every look was well...... refreshingly unexpected. The show opened with the perfect relaxed jeans, worn with the Blondie bag and tan suede Horsebit ballet flats. Several looks followed that featured pastel chiffon pussy-bow blouses, accessorized by a single strand of pearls. It was feminine and effortlessly cool, reminding us of British icon Jane Birkin—complete undone hair, big sunglasses, and equally oversized bags. The iconic lobster clasp was transposed to a feminine pearl necklace, and horsebit details across suede pay tribute to the House’s link with the equestrian world. Dainty daisies were juxtaposed with masculine blazers in wool and leather, while romantic lace was paired with oversized jackets and trench coats.
Although Ancora red and patent leather appeared several times on the runway, feminine, flowy and romantic silhouettes were brought to life on a colour palette which extended from pastels to tan suede, denim, and crisp white billowy blouses. Our favourite pussy bows in organza made a comeback and beads worked their charm but this time as tassel. The collection came to life through embroidery, tailoring, leather and craftsmanship with the use of geometric beads, prints, 3-D daisies, and long sequin strands on denim adorned the creations. Intricacy and ornament were worked into the collection via jeans with a feathered halo of threaded hanging beads and chamomile flowers. However, the chamomile bloom was a key motif seen on prints and appliqués. The collection was displayed across key silhouettes including rompers, oversized blazers, maxi dresses, oversized leather bombers, high-collared leather short coats, skirts and coordinated handbags.
Scroll through the entire collection here!
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